The Shanghai-style Cheongsam, especially, conveyed progressive messages of female body emancipation from the 1930s to 1940s it also came to symbolize the idea of modernity in "pursuing health, fashion, and natural beauty". The Shanghai-style Cheongsam originated in Shanghai and is a popular and dominant style. The pankou fasteners can sometimes take several days to create, typically requiring twenty-six procedures of silk processing to be turning into silk strips which would be appropriate in the making of the fasteners of various patterns by skilled artisans. Although it appears to use simple lines, the production process is complex. Therefore, the Beijing-style cheongsam expresses the beauty of Chinese culture in its style it gives the wearer a reserved, concise, gorgeous, and dignified appearance. It is also characterized by its wide piping. It maintains the traditional straight and A-line silhouette which flattens the curves of the female figure embroidery and elaborate adornments are considered desirable. The Beijing-style cheongsam originated in Beijing and is fairly traditional and conservative. The dang can also be combined with the gun in this combination, the dang and the gun would be made of the same width and colour of fabric but they would run parallel to each other about two to five centimeters away from each other. Other double-edged piping technique include “two- gun-one- qian” and the “two- gun-two- qian”. It is also typical for the qian and the gun to be used together on the same dress creating a double-edged look this technique is known as yigun yiqian ( 一滚一嵌 'one gun one qian'). There are four traditional piping techniques used in the making of the cheongsam: gun ( 滚 'roll') which is a narrow strips of fabric roll around the raw edge of the garment and is the most commonly used nowadays, xiang ( 镶) which is broad edging typically found in Manchu clothing of the Qing dynasty and the early cheongsam and is now quite rare, qian ( 嵌) is a very narrow strip of fabric which is even narrower than the gun, and dang ( 宕) is a specific type of xiang technique which uses a narrow strip of fabric which is stitched on the dress. The cheongsam is typically edged with piping, especially at the collar and the closure. Usage of the term " cheongsam" in Western countries mostly followed the original Cantonese meaning and applies to the dress worn by women only.
The word qipao ( keipo), which literally means " Bannerman robe" and originally referred to a loose-fitting, trapezoidal-cut garment worn by both Manchu men and women, became a more formal term for the female chèuhngsāam. In Hong Kong, where many Shanghainese tailors fled after the communist revolution of 1949, the word chèuhngsāam became gender-neutral, referring to both male and female garments. However, in Mandarin Chinese and other varieties of Chinese, chángshān ( 長衫) refers to an exclusively male garment, and the female version is known as the qípáo.
In Cantonese and Shanghainese, the term is used to describe a Chinese dress popularized in Shanghai. The term cheongsam is a romanization of Cantonese word chèuhngsāam ( 長衫 'long shirt/dress'), which comes from the Shanghainese term zansae. Terminology Īs English loanwords, both " cheongsam" and " qipao" describe the same type of body-hugging dress worn by Chinese women, and the words could be used interchangeably. Although the cheongsam is sometimes seen as traditional Chinese clothing, the cheongsam continues to evolve with times as it responds to the contemporary modern life.
It was popular in China from the 1920s to 1940s, overlapping with the Republican era, and was popularized by Chinese socialites and high society women in Shanghai. It was developed in the 1920s and evolved in shapes and design over years. The cheongsam is most often seen as a longer, figure-fitting, one piece garment with a standing collar, an asymmetric, left-over-right ( youren) opening and two side slits, and embellished with Chinese frog fasteners on the lapel and the collar. "Cheongsam" in Traditional (top) and Simplified (bottom) Chinese charactersĬheongsam ( UK: / tʃ( i) ɒ ŋ ˈ s æ m/, US: / tʃ ɔː ŋ ˈ s ɑː m/) or zansae, also known as the qipao ( / ˈ tʃ iː p aʊ/) and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the qizhuang, the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people.
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